Method of preparing hydrolyzed jojoba protein

ABSTRACT

Hydrolyzed jojoba protein is provided which can be used in a variety of cosmetic formulations to enhance the desirable properties thereof. The preferred hydrolyzed jojoba is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein. Cosmetic formulations such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, bath and shower gels, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens can be improved by incorporation of hydrolyzed jojoba protein therein.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

[0001] This is a continuation of application Ser. No. 09/841,552 filedApr. 23, 2001 entitled Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] 1. Field of the Invention

[0003] The present invention is broadly concerned with hydrolyzed jojobaprotein and uses thereof, particularly in connection with cosmeticproducts such as shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hairconditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hairmousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays,makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives,sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotionsand creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. More particularly, it isconcerned with hydrolyzed jojoba protein which is preferably in the formof a mixture of amino acids, peptides and/or protein fractions derivedfrom the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojoba protein; suchmixtures, when used in cosmetic products provide enhanced properties.

[0004] 2. Description of the Prior Art

[0005] Jojoba is a dioecious wind-pollinated shrub, reaching a height of1-5 meters and having a long life span (100-200 years). Jojoba iscultivated mainly in Arizona, Northern Mexico, Argentina and Israel.Genetic variability in morphology, anatomy and physiology within thespecies is very large and enable selection of clones for high yield andother agricultural attributes. Leaves are xerophytic with a thickcuticle, sunken stomata. They contain special tissue with a highconcentration of phenol compounds. Flowers are apetalous: the femaleones are usually solitary, one per two nodes although flowers every nodeor in clusters are not rare. The male flowers are clustered. Flower budsform in the axiles of leaves solely on the new vegetative growthoccurring during the warm seasons under favorable temperatures and waterregime. New flower buds are dormant and will open only after a coolseason with enough cold units for the fulfillment of their chillingrequirements. Anthesis occurs in the spring when the soil and airtemperature rise to above 15° C. Severe water stress prevents opening offlowers. The jojoba fruit is a capsule containing one to three darkbrown seeds that normally range in their dry weight between 0.5-1.1 gand contains 44-56% wax. Fruits ripen during the spring and early summerand seeds fall to the ground in late summer.

[0006] Indigenous Amerinds in the Sonora and Baja, Calif. used jojobaseed and oil for cooking, hair care, and for treatments of many medicalproblems such as poison ivy, sores, wounds, colds, cancer and kidneymalfunction. The oil is extracted from jojoba seed by conventional screwpressing techniques, leaving a residual defatted dry material which ishigh in native jojoba protein (typically on the order of 25-35% byweight protein).

[0007] Jojoba oil is a light yellow liquid at room temperature and ismade up of straight-chain esters of mono-unsaturated long chain fattyacids and fatty alcohols and has an average total carbon chain length of42 carbons. The product may be isomerized, hydrogenated, sulfurized,chlorinated or transesterified, and has a wide range of industrial uses,mainly in cosmetics in which it is incorporated in formulations for skincare preparations such as lotions, moisturizers, massage oils, creams,hair care products, lipsticks, makeups and nail products. Otherpotential uses include pharmaceuticals and as extenders for plastics,printers inks, gear-oil additives and lubricants.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The present invention is directed to a new form of jojobaprotein, namely hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof, aswell as uses of such protein products in cosmetic formulations. Thepreferred hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereof inaccordance with the invention comprise a mixture of amino acids,peptides and/or protein fractions derived from the hydrolysis of thenaturally occurring jojoba protein. Such hydrolysis is preferablycarried out enzymatically, but if desired acid hydrolysis can also beemployed.

[0009] In more detail, the hydrolyzed jojoba protein is typically in theform of a mixture having an amino acid, peptide and/or protein fragmentmolecular weight range of from about 75-5,000 with an average molecularweight of from about 1,500-2,500. During processing, it is oftendesirable to membrane filter the hydrolysis products in order tosegregate the peptides and/or protein fragments to achieve differentmolecular weight profiles. In one such preferred method, a hydrolyzedjojoba protein product of relatively high molecular weight is provided,with a molecular weight range for the respective peptides and/orfragments therein of from about 1,000-5,000 and with an averagemolecular weight of from about 3,000-4,000. Similarly, a lower molecularweight fraction (sometimes referred to as a jojoba amino acid fraction)is produced wherein the respective amino acids and peptides exhibit amolecular weight range of from about 75-1,000, with an average molecularweight of from about 100-300.

[0010] Although the hydrolyzed jojoba protein and derivatives thereofcan be produced as a dry powder, this is sometimes difficult andnormally the product is in the form of an aqueous dispersion containingjojoba protein or derivatives at a level of from about 18-35% by weight,more preferably from about 23-27% by weight.

[0011] As used herein, “derivatives” of hydrolyzed jojoba protein refersto changes in the structure of the individual amino acids, peptidesand/or protein fragments produced by amino acid addition, deletion,replacement, substitution and/or modifications; mutants produced byrecombinant and/or DNA shuffling; quaternized species; and all otherchemically synthesized/modified forms of the individual amino acids,peptides and/or protein fragments which retain at least in part someactivity of the initial hydrolyzed amino acids, peptides and/or proteinfragments. One particularly preferred class of hydrolyzed jojoba proteinderivatives is the lipid derivatives, especially those synthesized usingC12-C22 fatty acids. The term “hydrolyzed jojoba protein” is intended toembrace and cover not only the amino acids, peptides and/or proteinfractions derived from the hydrolysis of naturally occurring jojobaprotein but also all “derivatives” as herein defined.

[0012] The jojoba products of the invention can be used to good effectin a variety of cosmetic formulations which include at least oneingredient selected from the group consisting of humectants, emollients,conditioners, thickeners, moisturizing agents, opacifiers, pearl agents,buffering agents, slip agents, feel agents, anti-static agents,acidifiers, preservatives, film formers, plasticizers, setting agentsand suspending agents (usually, each of the foregoing ingredients whenused is present at a level of from about 0.05-10% by weight). An amountof hydrolyzed jojoba protein or derivative thereof is incorporated intothis type of cosmetic formulation, usually at a level of from about1-10% by weight, more preferably from about 3-8% by weight. Inasmuch asthe preferred jojoba protein products are in the form of liquiddispersions, it is a simple matter to add the jojoba to the cosmeticformulations during preparation thereof. Generally, the formulation ofthe invention comprise from about 10-95% by weight water, morepreferably from about 20-75% by weight water.

[0013] Among the cosmetic products which can benefit from incorporationof the jojoba products of the invention are those selected from thegroup consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels,hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hairmousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays,makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives,sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotionsand creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens. In products of these types,the shampoos and shampoo conditioners further comprise at least about 6%by weight detergent; the hairstyling gels further comprise a gel-formingpolymer system; the hair conditioners further comprise at least about0.3% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the hair reparatives furthercomprise at least about 2% by weight cationic hair conditioner; the bathand shower gels further comprise at least about 25% by weightsurfactant; the skin lotions and creams further comprise at least about2% by weight of a cream former; the sunscreen further comprising asunblocking agent; and the shaving creams further comprising at leastabout 10% by weight detergent and having a basic pH.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0014]FIG. 1 is a schematic flow diagram illustrating the steps involvedin the preferred process for the production of hydrolyzed jojobaprotein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

[0015] The following examples set forth preferred procedures for theproduction of hydrolyzed jojoba protein, and use thereof in cosmeticproducts. It is to be understood, however, that these examples areprovided by way of illustration and nothing therein should be taken as alimitation upon the overall scope of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

[0016] This example describes a preferred procedure for the preparationof hydrolyzed jojoba protein, using defatted jojoba meal as a startingmaterial. The meal is obtained from jojoba which has been conventionallypress-treated to remove the jojoba oil, leaving the defatted meal. Themeal had a protein content of 30.2% by weight, 38.3% by weight dietaryfiber, 1.7% by weight residual oil, ash of 4.3% by weight, moisture of5.6% by weight, with the remainder being insolubles. The following tablesets forth the amino acid profile of the protein fraction of the meal.TABLE 1 Ingredient Amino Acid Profile Aspartic Acid 2.82% Threonine1.41% Serine 1.53% Glutamic Acid 3.36% Proline 1.44% Glycine 2.45%Alanine 1.19% Cystine 0.80% Valine 1.54% Methionine 0.35% Isoleucine1.03% Leucine 2.02% Tyrosine 1.07% Phenylalanine 1.23% Histidine 0.61%Lysine 1.45% Arginine 1.95% Tryptophan 0.32%

[0017] The hydrolysis method is schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, andwas carried out as follows. First, 750 gallons of soft water was heatedto 140° F. and placed in a reaction tank. 1,000 pounds of theabove-described jojoba oil meal was added to the reaction tank withagitation to completely disperse the meal. At this point, 22 pounds of50% NaOH solution was added to the reaction tank for 1 hour tosolubilize the proteins and create the alkaline dispersion 10 of FIG. 1.

[0018] In the next step, the protein slurry was treated with 15 poundsof protease enzyme (step 12), using a commercially available enzyme(Alcalase, Novo) and hydrolyzed for 2 hours with agitation. During thishydrolysis, the pH was maintained between 7.5-8.0 using 50% NaOH. Asecond dose of the Alcalase protease enzyme (15 pounds) was then addedto the slurry followed by agitation for 2 hours. During this period,there was no pH adjustment.

[0019] In the next step 14, the pH of the slurry was adjusted to 6.5using lactic acid, whereupon a second protease treatment (step 16) wascarried out. This treatment included addition of 10 pounds of a secondprotease enzyme (Flavorzyme, Novo) followed by agitation for 4 hours.Thereupon, 3 pounds of Dual Protease Enzyme (Enzyme Development Corp.)was dispersed in 1 gallon of tap water and added to the slurry followedby the addition of 10 pounds of Neutrase (Novo). The slurry was thenagitated for an additional 2 hours to continue the hydrolysis process.

[0020] In step 18, lactic acid was added to the slurry to lower the pHto 4.5, followed by the addition of 8 pounds sodium metabisulfite withagitation for 10 minutes. Next, in step 20, the slurry was heated to160° F. to deactivate all protease enzymes.

[0021] The slurry containing hydrolyzed jojoba proteins was thenprocessed in a rotary vacuum filter (step 22) to remove insolubles, andthe filtrate was clarified by passage through a packed-house filter unit(step 24).

[0022] The clarified filtrate from step 24 was then fed to ananofiltration membrane system, in order to generate a permeate and aretentate having different molecular weight profiles (step 26) after theretentate reached about 31% by weight solids using a refractometer. Themembrane system was selected so that the lower molecular weight permeateproteins were generally below a molecular weight of 1,000, whereas theretentate proteins had a molecular weight of above about 1,000.

[0023] The retentate fraction was first treated by the addition ofpreservatives (step 28), namely 1% by weight Germaben II and 0.3% byweight Dowicil 200. The retentate was then chilled to 34-35° F. andallowed to stand for 16-24 hours (step 30). The chilled retentate wasthen cold-filtered in a packed-house filter unit to remove haziness(step 32), and additional preservatives were added (15% extra GermabenII and Dowicil 200).

[0024] The resulting retentate was aged 1-2 weeks (step 34) filtered(step 36) and packed in aqueous liquid form in 5-gallon jugs or55-gallon drums (step 38) as hydrolyzed jojoba protein 39. This liquidcontained about 10% by weight protein.

[0025] The permeate fraction was conventionally evaporated (step 40) toachieve a solids content of about 34% by weight, using a refractometer.Preservatives were then added (1% Germaben II and 0.3% Dowicil 200)followed by mixing for 1 hour (step 42). The retentate was thensubjected to the same aging, filtration and packaging steps 34, 36 and38 as the retentate, to produce aqueous liquid jojoba amino acid product44. This liquid product contained about 4.5% by weight protein.

[0026] A molecular weight analysis of the hydrolyzed jojoba protein andamino acid products revealed that the higher molecular weight proteinproduct was a mixture of peptides and/or protein fragments with a rangeof molecular weights of from about 1,000-5,000 and an average molecularweight of 3,500; the amino acid product was a mixture of amino acids andpeptides with a range of molecular weights of from about 75-1,000, andaverage molecular weight of 200. In particular, the jojoba amino acidproduct was analyzed to contain (wb) 0.28% aspartic acid, 0.13%threonine, 0.15% serine, 0.38% glutamic acid, 0.09% proline, 0.17%glycine, 0.17% alanine, 0.03% cysteine, 0.14% valine, 0.04% methionine,0.09% isoleucine, 0.17% leucine, <0.01% tyrosine, 0.13% phenylalanine,0.02% histidine, 0.08% lysine, 0.11% arginine, and <0.01% tryptophan.

[0027] It will be appreciated that the two products developed using thisprocess comprise peptides and/or protein fragments derived fromnaturally occurring jojoba protein, and that the reference to“hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and “jojoba amino acid” is a convenience,merely referring to the fact that the respective mixtures have differentmolecular weight profiles. In both cases, however, the products are“hydrolyzed jojoba protein” and this term is used herein to refer toboth of these products and for that matter any product containing aminoacids, peptides and/or protein fragments derived from naturallyoccurring jojoba protein via hydrolysis.

EXAMPLE 2

[0028] In this example, a jojoba amino acid product is produced by acidhydrolysis of jojoba meal. In the process, 450 gallons of warm (160° F.)water is transferred to a homomixer tank, followed by the addition of 2gallons of concentrated HCl (36%). The mixture is stirred and 950 poundsof jojoba meal is added, with continued stirring for 30 minutes. Theacidified slurry is then transferred to a glass-lined reactor and 448gallons of concentrated HCl (36%) is added to the reactor. Thetemperature of the mixture within the reactor is raised to 212-220° F.using a heat exchanger, followed by mixing for 24 hours. At the end ofthe 24 hour mixing period, the hydrolyzate is cooled to 120-140° F., and50%NaOH solution is added to adjust the pH to 6.0-7.0. The neutralizedhydrolyzate is then clarified using a rotary vacuum filter to removesolid particulates, and the clarified hydrolyzate is concentrated to thedesired solids level (20-30%) in an evaporator.

[0029] Preservatives (1% Germaben and 0.3% Dowicil 200) are added. Theproduct is then chilled at 34-35° F. for 16-24 hours. After chilling,the product is filtered using a packed-house filter unit to removehaziness. The product is then aged for 1-2 weeks, and a final filtrationis carried out using a packed-house filter unit. The product is thenpackaged in suitable containers such as 5 gallon jugs or 55 gallondrums.

EXAMPLE 3

[0030] In this example, quaternized derivatives of hydrolyzed jojobaprotein or jojoba amino acid are prepared. In the first step, 100 partsof the jojoba product (either hydrolyzed jojoba protein or hydrolyzedjojoba amino acid) are added to a reaction tank. The pH of the mixtureis adjusted to 9.1-9.3 using 50% NaOH.

[0031] Seventeen parts by weight of3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyldo-decylammonium chloride (Quab342, 40% active) and 6 parts by weight of tap water are mixed in aseparate container, followed by 1.7 parts by weight of 50% NaOH withagitation. The reaction is allowed to proceed for 10 minutes, giving afinal pH typically between 10-11 (a small amount of additional 50% NaOHwas added if the pH fell below 10). Alternatives to the Quab 342 productare 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-dimethyloctadecylammonium chloride(Quab 426) or 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium chloride(Quat 188) to produce other derivatives. The solution in the separatecontainer is then added to the pH-adjusted jojoba mixture, followed byagitation for 16-24 hours. The pH of the solution is then adjusted4.4-4.6 using lactic acid (88%) solution. The product is then filteredusing a packed-house filter unit to remove particulates, followed bypackaging.

[0032] Chemically, the finished product is laurdimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed jojoba protein (or laurdimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba aminoacid). If Quab 426 is used, the product is steardimonium hydroxypropylhydrolyzed jojoba protein (or steardimonium hydroxypropyl jojoba aminoacid). If Quat 188 is used, the product is called hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed jojoba protein (or hydroxypropyl trimonium jojobaamino acid).

EXAMPLE 4

[0033] The following products were produced using the hydrolyzed jojobaprotein products 39 and 44 described in Example 1.

[0034] Moisturizing Body Wash

[0035] The following ingredients were used to prepare the body wash.TABLE 2 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Kessco EGMS 70 Glycol Stearate Emulsifier1.50 A Versene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.05 A Stepanol CS-230 SodiumLaureth Cleaning 20.00 Sulfate A Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl Foam Booster5.00 Betain B Macamide C Cocamide Foam Booster 1.00 DEA B Jojoba ProteinHydrolyzed Reparative/ 5.00 Jojoba Protein Moisturizer B ChamomileExtract Chamomile Soothing 0.07 (Active Organic) Extract B Aloe VeraExtract Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.05 (Active Organic) B CalendulaExtract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 B Glycerox HE Peg-7 GlycerylHumectant 0.50 Cocoate B Aqua Pro Wheat Germ Oil Anti-oxidant .50 II ™WGO C Preservative QS Antibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0036] The product was prepared by placing an amount of distilled waterin a primary tank and heating the water to 75° C., whereupon theremaining ingredients of Phase A. were added with mixing. The mixturewas then cooled to 45° C. and the ingredients of Phases B and C wereadded with adequate mixing. The pH of the mixture was then adjustedusing 25% citric acid, and the viscosity was adjusted using a minoramount of 10% NaCl solution.

[0037] Hair Shampoo

[0038] The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo. TABLE3 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled Water DistilledWater Aqua Adjust A Versene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.05 A StepanolCS-230 Sodium Laureth Cleaning 20.00 Sulfate A Amphosol CACocamidopropyl Foam Booster 3.00 Betain B Macamide C Cocamide DEA FoamBooster 1.00 B Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Reparative/ 5.00 Jojoba ProteinMoisturizer B Chamomile Extract Chamomile Soothing 0.07 (Active Organic)Extract B Aloe Vera Extract Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.05 (ActiveOrganic) B Calendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 CPreservative QS Antibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0039] Distilled water was placed in a primary tank and the remainingingredients of Phase A were added, followed by those of Phases B and C,with mixing. pH was adjusted using 25% citric acid, and viscosity wasadjusted with 10% NaCl solution.

[0040] Ultra Shampoo

[0041] The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo. TABLE4 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled Water DistilledWater Aqua Adjust A Merquat 550 Polyquaternium-7 Film Former 0.05 AStepanol WAC Sodium Lauryl Cleansing 10.00 Sulfate A Stepanol CS-230Sodium Laureth Cleansing 10.00 Sulfate A Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl FoamBooster 3.00 Betain B Mackamide C Cocamide DEA Foam Booster 1.00 BJojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Reparative/ 5.50 Jojoba Protein SubstantivityB Chamomile Extract Chamomile Soothing 0.07 (Active Organic) Extract BCalendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 C Preservative QSAntibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0042] The ultra shampoo was prepared using the same technique for theabove-described hair shampoo.

[0043] Moisturizing Shampoo

[0044] The following ingredients were used to prepare the shampoo. TABLE5 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled Water DistilledWater Aqua Adjust A Merquat 550 Polyquaternium-7 Film Former 0.05 AStepanol WAC Sodium Lauryl Cleansing 10.00 Sulfate A Stepanol CS-23Sodium Laureth Cleansing 10.00 Sulfate A Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl FoamBooster 3.00 Betain B Mackamide C Cocamide DEA Foam Booster 1.00 BJojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Reparative/ 5.50 Jojoba Protein Moisturizer BChamomile Extract Chamomile Soothing 0.07 (Active Organic) Extract BAloe Vera Extract Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.03 (Active Organic) BCalendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 B Licorice ExtractLicorice Extract Astringent 0.03 (Active Organic) C Preservative QSAntibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0045] The moisturizing shampoo was prepared using the same techniquefor the above-described hair shampoo.

[0046] Hand Lotion

[0047] The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand lotion.TABLE 6 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Glycerin Glycerin Humectant 1.0 B TriplePress Stearic Stepan DGS SE Emulsifier 2.00 Acid B Lipocol C CetylAlcohol Emulsifier 1.50 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Sterate Emolliency 1.50B Shea Butter Shea Butter Emollient 0.05 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl MyristateEmollient 0.80 B Lipo IPM Isopropyl Palmitate Emollient 0.80 B MineralOil Crystosol NF 90 Emollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Wheat Starch SilkyFeel 6.00 Modified D Japanese Green Tea Green Tea Extract Astringent0.05 Extract (Active Organic) D Goldenrod Extract Goldenrod ExtractAstringent 0.05 (Active Organic) D Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Healing 0.05(Active Organic) D Yucca Extract Yucca Extract Stimulant 0.03 (ActiveOrganic) E Jojoba Amino Acid Hydrolyzed Jojoba Moisturizer/ 5.00 AminoAcid Anti-Wrinkle E Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

[0048] The distilled water was placed in a mixing tank along with theglycerine, and the mixture was heated to 75° C. The ingredients of PhaseB were placed in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. Phase B wasthen added to Phase A at 75° C. and good agitation. The mixture was thenallowed to cool to 65 C and the ingredient of Phase C was added, makingsure that there were no lumps or powder remaining on the side of thetank. The ingredients of Phase D were added in the listed order. Themixture was then cooled to 35° C. and the jojoba amino acid product 44was added along with preservative.

[0049] Moisturizing Hand Cream

[0050] The following ingredients were used to prepare the hand cream.TABLE 7 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol Humectant1.0 A Completech Milk Protein Skin Feel 0.50 MBAC-DS B Stepan DGS SETriple Press Emulsifier 3.00 Stearic Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl AlcoholEmulsifier 2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B SheaButter Shea Butter Emollient 0.16 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl Emollient 1.00Myristate B Lipo IPM Isopropyl Emollient 1.00 Palmitate B Crystosol NF90 Mineral Oil Emollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Wheat Starch Silky Feel6.64 Modified D Japanese Green Tea Green Tea Extract Astringent 0.05Extract (Active Organic) D Goldenrod Extract Goldenrod Astringent 0.05(Active Organic) Extract D Aloe Vera Aloe Vera Healing 0.05 (ActiveOrganic) D Yucca Extract Yucca Extract Stimulant 0.03 (Active Organic) EJojoba Amino Acid Hydrolyzed Anti-Wrinkle/ 5.00 Jojoba Amino MoisturizerAcid E Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

[0051] The distilled water and other ingredients of Phase A were placedin a primary tank and heated to 75° C. The ingredients of Phase B wereplaced in a secondary tank and also heated to 75° C. The Phase Bingredients were added to the Phase A ingredients at 75° C. with goodagitation. The mixture was then allowed to cool and at 50-55° C. theingredient of Phase C was added, making sure that there were no lumps orpowder remaining in the tank. The ingredients of Phase D were then addedin the order listed. The mixture was then allowed to cool to 35° C.,whereupon the jojoba amino acid product and preservative were added.

[0052] Moisturizing Foot Cream

[0053] The following ingredients were used to prepare the foot cream.TABLE 8 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin USP Glycerin Humectant 0.5 A TEA 99%Triethanolamine pH adjuster QS A Milk Protein Milk Glyceride Filmforming 0.50 A Cosmogel-40 Wheat Starch Thickener 1.0 B Lipocol SStearic Acid Emulsifier 3.00 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 BLipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Aqua Pro Wheat Germ OilAnti-Oxidant 0.50 II ™ WGO B Cocobutter Cocobutter Emollient .20 B LipoIPM Isopropyl Myristate Emollient .50 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl PalmitateEmollient .50 C Skin-Flow C ™ Modified Wheat Skin Feel 2.00 Starch DCalendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.05 D Chamomile ExtractChamomile Extract Astringent 0.05 D Aloe Vera Extract Aloe Vera ExtractHealing 0.05 D Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Moisturizer 5.00 ProteinD Hydrolyzed Jojoba Hydrolyzed Jojoba Moisturizer 5.00 Amino Acid AminoAcid D Menthyl Crystal Menthyl Crystal Cooling 0.20 D Peppermint OilPeppermint Oil Refresher 1.00 D Preservative Preservative QS QS E Yellow#5 FD&C Yellow #5 QS QS E Blue #1 FD&C Blue #1 QS QS

[0054] Distilled water was metered into a primary tank, followed bymixing in Cosmogel-40 with good agitation at 40° C. When the Cosmogel-40was in solution, the remaining Phase A ingredients were added withheating to 75° C. All of the ingredients in Phase B were weighed inanother tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B was then added to Phase A withgood agitation, and when the temperature reached 50-55° C., theSkin-Flow-C wheat starch product was added, making sure there were nolumps or powder remaining on the side of the tank. The Phase Bingredients were then added in the listed order, followed by coloraddition and pH adjustment to 5.5-6.5.

[0055] Moisturizing Foundation

[0056] The following ingredients were used to prepare the foundation.TABLE 9 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Deionized WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A TEA Triethanolamine Humectant 0.5 A PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol Humectant QS A Carbomer-940 Carbomer Viscosity0.20 A Veegum Magnesium Alumi- Viscosity 0.30 num Silicate B Steric AcidTriple Press Stearic Emulsifier 1.00 Acid B Glucamate SSE-20 PEG-20Dimethyl Conditioning 1.00 Glucose Sesqusterate B Ritacol 1000Sterate-20 Emulsifier 0.80 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 0.50 BLipocol SC-20 Ceteth-20 Emulsifier 0.50 B Glucate SS Isopropyl MyristateEmollient .50 B Orgasol 2002 Ex Nylon-12 Biner 3.50 C Isopar-G C10-11Isoparaffin Solvent 0.20 D Cab-O-Sil Silica Dimethyl Bulking 1.00Siliylate D Dow Corning 244 Cyclomethicone Feel 15.00 E Eusolex T-200Titanium Dioxide UV 2.00 Protection E Iron Oxide Yellow Iron OxideYellow Color 0.40 E Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide Black Color 0.40 E IronOxide Red Iron Oxide Red Color 0.30 F Tween-20 Polysorbate-20 Surfactant1.00 F Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 2.00 Protein FJojoba Amino Acid Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 2.00 Amino Acid G SkinFlow-C ™ Modified Wheat Silky Feel 2.00 Starch H Preservative QSAntibacterial QS I Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0057] The ingredients of Phase A were heated to 75° C., and theingredients of Phase E were passed through a colloid mill with somepropylene glycol and recirculation until the pigments were evenlydispersed. The colloid mill was rinsed with the Phase C ingredient andmixed using a lightnin mixer with heating to 75° C. Phase B componentswere premixed and heated to 75° C., and added to the main batch. ThePhase G ingredient was then sprinkled into the main batch premix Phase Dwith heating to 65° C. At 40° C., the ingredients of Phase F were addedto the main batch together with preservative and fragrance.

[0058] Gentle Conditioning Agent

[0059] The following ingredients were used to prepare the conditioningagent. TABLE 10 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A DistilledWater Distilled Water Aqua QS A Aqua Pro II ™ QWt Hydroxypropyltri-Conditioning 2.00 monium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein A Lipowax G StearylAlcohol Emulsifier 3.50 A Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 3.00 (Lipo)A Lipocol C-20 Ceteth-20 Emulsifier 2.50 A Beeswax White BeeswaxEmulsifier 0.25 A Dimethicone Dow Corning 200 Feel 1.00 Fluid AEmulsifying Wax Stearyl Alcohol/ Emulsifier 1.50 Ceterareth-20 B JojobaAmino Acid Hydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative 3.00 Amino Acid B Jojoba ProteinHydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative 3.00 Protein B Chamomile Extract ChamomileExtract Soothing 0.05 B Aloe Vera Extract Aloe Vera Extract Healing 0.08B Calendula Extract Calendula Extract Healing 0.03 B Licorice ExtractLicorice Extract Astringent 0.08 C Preservative QS Antibacterial QS CFragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0060] Distilled water added to a primary tank followed by theingredients of Phase A in the order listed, and the mixture was heatedto 75° C. The mixture was then cooled to 35° C., and the Phase B and Cingredients were added. The pH was adjusted to 3.0 with 25% citric acid,and fragrance and preservative were added.

[0061] Moisturizing Baby Cream

[0062] The following ingredients were used to prepare the baby cream.TABLE 11 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Distilled WaterDistilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin Glycerin USP Humectant 2.50 B LipocolS Stearic Acid Emulsifier 3.00 B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 3.50B Lipowax G Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 GlycerylSterate Emulsifier 2.50 B Dow Corning 200 Dimethicone Film Former 1.00Fluid B Aqua Wheat Germ Oil Anti-Oxidant 0.50 Pro ™ II WGO CSkin-Flow-C ™ Modified Wheat Silky Feel/ 6.50 Starch Thickener D JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Moisturizer/ 5.00 Jojoba Protein Anti-Wrinkle FJojoba Amino Acid Hydrolyzed Moisturizer/ 5.00 Jojoba Amino Anti-WrinkleAcid H Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

[0063] Distilled water was metered into a primary tank and the glycerinewas added with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredients were added inorder to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added to the Phase A ingredients with good agitation. When thetemperature reached 50-55° C., the Skin-Flow-C product was shifted intothe batch, making sure there were no lumps or powder. The Phase Dingredients were added, and at 35° C., the preservative was added withpH adjustment to 3.5-4.5.

[0064] Anti-Wrinkle Cream

[0065] The following ingredients were used to prepare the anti-wrinklecream. TABLE 12 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A DistilledWater Distilled Water Aqua QS A Glycerin Glycerin USP Humectant 1.0 AMilk Protein Completech MBAC- Skin Feel 0.50 DS B Stepan DGS SE TriplePress Stearic Emulsifier 3.00 Acid B Lipocol C Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier2.00 B Lipo GMS-450 Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 1.75 B Promulgin DCetearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 1.00 Ceteareth-20 B Coco Butter Coco ButterEmollient 0.50 B Lipo IPP Isopropyl Myristate Emollient 1.50 B Lipo IPMIsopropyl Palmitate Emollient 1.50 B Crystisik NF 90 Mineral OilEmollient 0.50 C Skin-Flow-C ™ Wheat Starch Silky Feel 6.00 Modified FJojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 5.00 Protein F JojobaAmino Acid Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 5.00 Amino Acid H PreservativeQS Antibacterial QS

[0066] The distilled water was added to a primary tank followed by theingredients of Phase A, with heating to 75° C. The Phase B ingredientswere added in order to a secondary tank and heated to 75° C. Phase B wasadded to Phase A at 75° C. with good agitation. At 50-55° C., theSkin-Flow-C product was added, making sure there were no lumps or powderremaining. When the temperature reached 35° C., the jojoba amino acidand hydrolyzed jojoba protein were added, together with thepreservative.

[0067] Hair Styling Gel

[0068] The following ingredients were used to prepare the hair stylinggel. TABLE 13 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A DeionizedWater Deionized Water Aqua QS A Luviskol K30 PV Pethanolamine Fixative1.80 A TEA (25%) Triethanolamine pH Adjuster QS A Carbomer-940 CarbopolThickener 1.00 A Glucame-E20 Methyl Gluceth-20 Film Former 0.50 AVersene NA2 Disodium EDTA Chelation 0.50 B Tween-20 Polysorbate-20Cleansing 1.50 B Uvasorb S5 Benzophenone-4 UV Protection 0.04 B JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative 3.00 Protein C Preservative QSAntibacterial QS C Fragrance QS Fragrance QS

[0069] The Carbomer was added in 25% water followed by mixing in ofPhase A ingredients in order. Next, the Phase B ingredients were addedwith good agitation, followed by addition of preservative and fragrance.The pH of the product was 5.5.

[0070] Professional Relaxer

[0071] The following ingredients were used to prepare the professionalrelaxer. TABLE 14 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A DeionizedWater Distilled Water Aqua Adjust A Glycerin Glycerin USP Humectant 6.00A Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Reparative/ 5.00 Protein MoisturizerB Tween-60 Polysorbate-60 Cleanser 12.00 B Crystosol NF 90 Mineral OilEmollient 14.00 B Emery 1650 Lanoline Emollient 1.00 B Amerchol CPetrolatum Emollient 10.00 B Lipowax G Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 3.00 CSodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide pH Adjuster QS (25%)

[0072] The Phase A ingredients and Phase B ingredients were separatelyheated to 75° C. and mixed with good agitation. The Phase C ingredientwas then add at 50-55° C. The product had a pH of 11.75-12.5.

[0073] Super Hair Reparative

[0074] The following ingredients were used to prepare the super hairreparative TABLE 15 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount ADistilled Water Distilled Water Aqua Adjust B Jojoba Protein HydrolyzedJojoba Reparative 5.00 Protein B Aqua Pro ™ II HydroxypropylConditioning 3.00 QWs Steryldimonium B Jojoba Amino Acid HydrolyzedJojoba Reparative 1.00 Amino Acid C Salcare SC-96 Polyquaternium-37Emulsifier 4.50 and Propylene Glycol Dicapry- late/Dicaprate and PPG-1Trideceth-6 D Tween-20 Polysorbate-20 Cleanser 1.0 D Fragrance FragranceFragrance 0.20 E Preservative QS Antibacterial QS

[0075] The distilled water was metered into a tank, followed by theaddition of the Phase B ingredients with good agitation. The Phase Cingredient was then added followed by the ingredients of Phase D and E.The pH of the product was adjusted to 3.5-4.5 with 25% citric acid.

[0076] Face Mask

[0077] The following ingredients were used to prepare the face mask.TABLE 16 Phase Trade Name INCI Name Function Amount A Deionized WaterDistilled Water Aqua Adjust A Propylene Glycol Propylene GlycolHumectant 1.50 B Lipocol GMS-450 Glyceryl Sterate Emulsifier 2.00 BLipowax G Stearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.50 B Lipocol C Cetyl AlcoholEmulsifier 2.00 C Skin-Flow-C ™ Wheat Starch Skin Feel 2.00 Modified DKaoline Kaoline Colloidal Firming 10.00 NF D Bentonite Bentonite 670Firming 8.00 E Aqua Pro II ™ CO Colloidal Oat Anti-Wrinkle 5.00 E JojobaProtein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 3.00 Protein E Jojoba Amino AcidHydrolyzed Jojoba Anti-Wrinkle 3.00 Amino Acid F Preservative QSAntibacterial QS

[0078] The Phase A and Phase B ingredients were separately heated to 75°C., and Phase B was added to Phase A with mixing. When the mixturereached 65° C., the Phase C ingredient was added with good mixing.Thereafter, the Phase D ingredients were added and the mixture wascooled to 35° C., whereupon the Phase E ingredients were added alongwith the preservative.

We claim:
 1. A method of hydrolyzing defatted jojoba meal comprising thesteps of: forming an aqueous alkaline dispersion of said defatted jojobameal; hydrolyzing said jojoba protein by adding protease enzymes to saiddispersion and agitating the dispersion; adding an acid to said agitateddispersion to lower the pH thereof; and deactivating remaining proteaseenzyme in said dispersion.
 2. The method of claim 1, said hydrolyzingstep comprising the step of initially adding a first quantity ofprotease enzyme to said dispersion with agitation and while maintainingthe pH of the dispersion at a level between 7.5-8.0, and thereafteradding a second quantity of protease enzyme to the dispersion withadditional mixing.
 3. The method of claim 2, including the step ofadjusting the pH of said dispersion to 6.5 after said additional mixingstep is completed, and then adding dosages of three protease enzymeswith still further agitation.
 4. The method of claim 1, said acidaddition step comprising the step of adding lactic acid to saiddispersion to lower the pH to 4.5.
 5. The method of claim 1, includingthe step of adding sodium metabisulfite to said dispersion after saidacid addition step.
 6. The method of claim 1, said deactivating stepcomprising the step of heating said dispersion to a temperaturesufficient to deactivate all protease enzymes present in the dispersion.7. The method of claim 1, including the step of passing said dispersionafter said enzyme deactivation step through a filtration system togenerate respective permeate and retentate fractions having differentmolecular weight profiles, with the retentate fraction having a highermolecular weight profile than said permeate fraction.
 8. The method ofclaim 7, including the step of chilling and aging said retentatefraction.
 9. A method of hydrolyzing jojoba meal comprising the stepsof: forming an aqueous acidic dispersion of said jojoba meal; heatingsaid dispersion to a temperature of 212-220° F. and agitating thedispersion to generate a hydrolysate; and cooling the hydrolysate to120-140° F. and neutralizing the hydrolysate.
 10. The method of claim 9,said neutralizing step comprising the step of adding NaOH to thehydrolysate to achieve a pH of 6.0-7.0.
 11. The method of claim 9,including the steps of filtering said hydrolysate, and concentrating thehydrolysate to a solids level of 20-30%.
 12. The method of claim 11,including the steps of chilling and filtering the hydrolysate andallowing the same to age.